When the chance to visit Kenya came up, I didn’t hesitate for a moment. East Africa, and particularly Kenya’s Maasai Mara, had been at the top of my travel wish list for as long as I could remember. While I loved my time on safari in South Africa, I’d heard that the East Africa offered a far richer and more diverse wildlife experience. The idea of the endless plains stretching out to the horizon had always shaped my vision of an iconic safari experience. So, without a doubt, I said yes! 

 

Getting There

Traveling from North America to the continent of Africa is always an undertaking. There are few direct flights from North America to large cities in Africa, so connections are common and result in two long haul flights. For example, for my trip to South Africa, I transited through London to fly to Johannesburg and from Cape Town. It was exhausting! I considered this again for my Kenya trip because I’d heard mixed reviews about Kenya Air, but ultimately I opted to take my chances and advantage of the direct flight from NYC to Nairobi. This decision proved to be the right choice. The service was fantastic, food better than expected and Kenya is a codeshare partner with Delta, so this flight bumped my status to Diamond medallion for 2025. The flight time was approximately 14 hours which is ideal for a meal, two movies, some reading time and a decent rest.  

How To Pack & Prepare

Packing for safari can seem overwhelming but I assure you it is not. The key things to consider are luggage weight & dimension requirements and seasonality. Because it is common to travel via ‘light’ aircraft between safari camps, soft sided luggage is typically required. I really like this Patagonia duffle – there are options with and without wheels. All lodges provide laundry service, and, in most cases, this is included in your rate so there is no need to overpack!

So, what to pack? Regardless of the season, I always recommend layers – if traveling during the colder months in Kenya (June-October), the coldest temperatures are in the morning and by cold, I mean in the 50 degrees Fahrenheit, nothing arctic. Kenya is equatorial, so temperature is relatively consistent throughout the year. High end lodges will provide blankets and hot water bottles on safari trucks for additional warmth. By the end of a morning game drive when the sun comes out, you’ll be removing those warmer layers. 

Before any trip to the continent of Africa, you should set up an appointment with your doctor to discuss recommended immunizations, shots, boosters & meds. These recommendations will be given based on the specific locations you are visiting and can vary vastly so never rely on the internet or ‘friends who have been’ for this information. Also ask your travel advisor or tour operator for any immunizations required for entry. For example, a Yellow Fever certificate is required for some East African countries or when transiting between. In my case, there were no required vaccinations, but my doctor did recommend Malaria pills. 

 

Our Itinerary & Where We Stayed

 Ok, now that we’re through the boring stuff, let’s talk about our itinerary!  Disclaimer: this trip was a work trip so while I would highly recommend the routing and destinations, I would never suggest moving as quickly as we did! I generally recommend at least three nights at most game lodges. This will allow you to relax and maximize your game sightings.

Our itinerary:

Arrive Nairobi; stay at Hemingways (1 night) 

Short flight to Mara Expedition Camp (2 nights) 

Drive to Mara Plains Camp (2 nights)

Short flight to Segera (2 nights)

Flight to Nairobi; stay at Hemingways (1 night)  

Day room at the Retreat at Giraffe Manor; fly home in the evening 

 

Mara Expedition Camp & Mara Plains Camp

These camps are located in the heart of the Maasai Mara and part of the Great Plains Expedition portfolio which emphasizes eco-tourism and community engagement. Proceeds from the conservancy fees directly support wildlife conservation and local Maasai communities. 

One of the cool things about safari is that it starts the moment you are picked up from the air strip. 10 minutes into our drive to the camp, we spotted a leopard walking across the road. Leopards are notoriously difficult to find and typically hide in thick brush and trees. This certainly set the tone of excitement for what was come!

Mara Expeditions Camp is a tented 4 star lodge which accesses the Olare Motorogi Conservancy as well as the Maasai Mara National reserve. It features canvas tents and while not extravagant, have all the creature comforts including cozy bedding, en-suite bathrooms, and coolers stocked with beverages. The food at this lodge was exceptional – all super healthy, tasty and they catered to our groups many dietary needs (we had a vegan, gluten free and many picky eaters). For our second (and last) night on property, we experienced dinner in their open air kitchen which culminated with song and dance by the cooks and chef. This was an experience I’ll never forget. 

Our next stop, Mara Plains Camp was 5 star and also tented. The abundance and type of game was no different here, but the amenities and overall design were elevated – think Persian carpets, rich textiles, copper fixtures and rain showers in the bathrooms, large open air verandas, and high-quality amenities, including binoculars, and a professional camera with lenses for wildlife photography (available for guest use).  Like most safari lodges in East Africa, these lodges were small with only 5-10 tents. This allows for a highly personalized experience where guests feel like they are at home. 

Each day consisted of morning and evening game drives (where we saw 3 more leopards (true story!), lion, giraffe, hippos, cheetah & cheetah cubs, hyena, elephants, warthogs, zebra, hippos, alligators, rhino, gazelle, baboons, bush babies, and more…), intersected by spa & relaxation (and work) mid-day. Morning games can include breakfast on the go or set up in a beautiful (and safe) spot while evening game drives often include sundowners. Game drives vary in length from 1-4 hours and can be customized to everyone’s needs, dependent on the weather and the type of game out that day. The best part is you never know what you will find!

At one very exciting point, we saw a herd of buffalo chase a lion for 20 minutes after it tried to hunt one of its babies. We followed the lion back home to its pack and watched as they ran up to greet her with kisses and snuggles. 

 Another highlight was our air balloon safari. This is a common activity in East Africa and offers the coolest vantage of the savannah – from up high we saw many elephant families and even piqued the interest of a lion family. Upon landing we were met by a beautiful bush breakfast (and fortunately we weren’t breakfast for that lion family).

Segera Retreat

 Our last stop and arguably the cherry on top was to Segera Retreat, set on 50,000 acre conservancy located in the Likipia plateau with views to Mount Kenya and in addition to abundant game, a diversity of landscapes including the plains, acacia woodlands and lush garden. Segera is made up of six opulent villas, all with their own unique style, most with private pools and butler service. The camp has its own airstrip (a 2 minute walk to the lodge), an art barn filled with contemporary African art, kitchen garden, gorgeous spa and small fitness facility as well as an extensive wine collection. Hospitality and food were next level and I particularly loved that their head chef was a young Kenyan woman. 

Segera Retreat has robust anti-poaching initiatives as part of its broader conservation mission. One day, we had the opportunity to take part in an anti-poaching training exercise with their dogs and trainers. I will admit, after days of watching beautiful animals, it was pretty sweet to be able to snuggle some adorable anti-poaching hounds. 

Kenya Safari Planning Considerations – How to choose your lodge & How Long to Stay

Lodge access to a private conservancy is key — private lands have far fewer vehicles and will allow guests to see more wildlife in a less chaotic setting. This is not to say that national parks & reserves are to be missed but ideally at least one of your lodges in an itinerary will include access to a private conservancy. 

 I’d suggest a minimum of 9 nights on the ground (not including travel time) to enjoy a rich experience in East Africa. This is not a trip to rush through and ideally you will experience 1-2 safari lodges (and hopefully more) capped off by beach extension on the Kenyan Coast, Mauritius, Mozambique, Zanzibar or the Seychelles.  You can also easily pair Kenya with Tanzania. Depending on where you visit, you may also need to add on a night here & there to connect with flights to your next destination. 

I cannot express enough that is not a trip to DIY. There are so many nuances to consider relating to logistics, lodge style, and routing. Leave this one to a professional travel advisor (who has been) or a reputable tour operator! 

Timing The Great Migration

 The great Migration (ie.the mass movement of millions of herds across the Serengeti-Mara ecosystem) generally occurs in the summer months so if this is very important, plan your trip accordingly. Of course, this is highly dependent on weather patterns for the year that impact rainfall and the availability of fresh grass. We were there in November and did see some herds of Wildebeests and as mentioned, tons of game. I did not personally feel like I was missing anything! 

Advance Planning 

As mentioned before, lodges in East Africa are generally very small (i.e., between 6-15 rooms/tents) so this is a trip to plan one year out, especially if timing your trip around the Great Migration. This is not to say that you can’t find space closer to your travel dates, but advanced planners will be rewarded with a better choice of lodges that suite their individual needs & wnats. In addition, most lodges only have 1 family tent, so those with younger children who want to sleep together should plan in advance.

Budget

For a well-designed safari experience at 4 or 5 star lodges, expect to spend at minimum $750 per person per day. 

Kenya has stolen my heart, and I’m already planning my next trip to this magical corner of the world. If you’ve ever dreamed of experiencing East Africa’s wildlife and culture firsthand, we’d love to help you design your customized adventure! Click here to submit your inquiry so we can start planning!